I will have to confess that Northside as a neighborhood is a bit of a hard sell for me. In the 21 years that I have lived in Cincinnati, Northside has always been called “the next big thing”. Up until very recently, that proclamation has always seemed to fail to pan out. There does appear to be some actual positive movement in the last couple of years though, with several residential developments cropping up as well as restaurants like Bistro Grace (reviewed in this blog in April), Django Western Taco, and The Littlefield filling in some of the long underutilized commercial space along the business corridor of Hamilton Avenue. In this vein, I was excited to hear about the Northside Yacht Club on Spring Grove Avenue. I wish that my excitement was warranted, but going back to the Northside Yacht Club will probably be as much of a hard sell as Northside itself.
This is not to say that the bar portion of the establishment is inherently bad. What is bad though is the proliferation of patrons who seem to be trying just a little bit too hard to be different than everyone else and in the process have ended up looking exactly like each other. I don’t think I need to elaborate, you know the type. The bartenders are very laid back, almost to the point that they are bored to be there and getting a drink for a patron is a chore. In no way do I mean to imply rudeness at all, just apathy. And I have said so before in this very blog, I strongly dislike bars where I have to order my food from the bar and not from a server. The bartender doesn’t want to be bothered with it and the food never comes out exactly right. If I sound unenthusiastic, you are reading me correctly. There were five of us at the table and it was a struggle to bring out all of our food in a time frame where we all felt like we were being served at the same time. I would excuse that in a large party setting, but five patrons shouldn’t be a challenge for any restaurant. The quality of the food varied wildly. I ordered cilantro honey lime wings that were meaty and delicious with a flavor unlike anything that I would expect from a dish as plebeian as chicken wings. The now ubiquitous poutine was delicious as well. However, my friend’s vegan lentil Cincinnati chili fries were bordering on disgusting. (Disclaimer: I am not a fan of Cincinnati style chili to begin with. Cinnamon and chocolate do not belong in chili. This rant is now over.) I was also less than thrilled with the decor. There was really nothing to set it apart as a “yacht club” aside from the nautical rope on the ceiling. If I am being blatantly honest, it all looks like a half-hearted attempt at reopening a previous business with barely a coat of paint and a name change and expecting a change of fortune.
If perhaps one lived near Northside Yacht Club, it might be an OK place to stop in for a beer. That being said, I don’t live anywhere near Northside and the likelihood of me going there for the specific purpose of visiting Northside Yacht Club again is slim to none.