Everybody knows that Bakersfield is the coolest restaurant in Cincinnati, right? Never fear, if you were out of the loop, now you know.
There is no way that I can write this review without clearly stating upfront that Bakersfield is my favorite casual restaurant in Cincinnati. Now that that little tidbit is out of the way, I can get to the business of why it is consistently among my favorite places to have a drink and eat some tacos. As what I would consider one of the tentpole restaurants along the Vine Street corridor, along with Senate and A Tavola, Bakersfield is consistently one of the most popular restaurants in the city, with good reason. The food is delicious (and remarkably consistent), the drinks are incredibly fresh (especially the house made margaritas, no Chi Chi’s margarita mix going on here folks) and the service is among the best I have ever experienced in an independent casual restaurant.
Bakersfield is the brainchild of the Lanni Brothers of the Thunderdome Restaurant Group, the company that brought us not only Bakersfield, but also The Eagle, Kruegers, Currito and the forthcoming Maplewood Kitchen, a breakfast and lunch spot in the 84.51 Building. There are multiple locations of Bakersfield and The Eagle, including Indianapolis and Columbus as well as locations as far flung as Charlotte and Nashville, but the Over the Rhine location is the original. It is a small space, so you might be wise to dine with a small group. I have eaten there with as many as 10, but the wait becomes prohibitive most times. For that matter, Bakersfield is one of the most in-demand restaurants that I have ever been to that doesn’t take reservations, so either be prepared to wait or eat at an off-peak time. No matter though, you can easily belly up to the bar and enjoy one of the freshest margaritas that will ever pass through your lips. There is none of the bitter sour aftertaste that often accompanies a chain restaurant margarita or even a standard neighborhood Mexican restaurant. All of the drink ingredients are super fresh and even if you aren’t into booze, try a Mexican Coca Cola. It always reminds me of when Coke came in glass bottles and was made with real sugar. (I’m sure I’m dating myself here!) There are only four or five beers on draft, but really, why are you ordering a beer when you have the opportunity for a Bakerfield margarita?
Two of the salads at Bakersfield, The Johnny and The June, pay homage to a couple of the greatest artists in the history of country music, Johnny and June Carter Cash. I’m not a big salad eater, especially at a restaurant like Bakersfield, but both of these are top notch. I would much prefer to start out with the best guacamole I have ever had, as well as fantastic chips and queso. If you are adventurous, add a bit of chorizo to your queso for a little bit of a spicy kick. The guac is a little chunky, a little spicy, a little garlicky and is finished with a twist of lime. Fantastic. Any other words would be superflous.
But really, aren’t we all going to Bakersfield for the tacos? Don’t expect an oversized Taco Bell Chalupa disaster, these tacos are small street taco sized and two or three will usually suffice if you have already partaken in a few margaritas and chips and guacamole. Its hard to pick a favorite taco, but the Short Rib is so tender that I rarely pass it up. The Pollo Rojo, made with braised chicken is superb as well, and the Huitlacoche, a corn truffle and roasted poblano pepper creation is superb and unique to the palate of most midwesterners such as myself.
If I ever have one complaint about Bakersfield, I would suggest that the host staff dial back the attitude just a little bit. There will come a time when Bakerfield won’t be the cool kid in town and they will wish that they were just a smidgeon nicer to patrons who are waiting for a table. What comes around goes around, or karma, or blah blah blah. You get the picture. That one little gripe won’t keep me away from Bakersfield though.