It is no secret that I am not a fan of fast food, but Roney’s presents me with a dilemma: fast food, but locally owned. Roney’s has an interesting and somewhat complicated backstory. They originally opened in 1969 on the corner of State Route 32 and Roney Lane in Union Township in Clermont County, not far from Eastgate Mall. For the first 43 years of their existence, they were a franchise of the Roy Rogers Restaurant chain (hence the faux cowboy decor). While those of you 40 and over may remember Roy Rogers having a presence in the Cincinnati area, by and large they have disappeared from all but about 50 east coast locations. At various times, they were owned by several entities including Hardee’s, most of whom decimated the once thriving chain reducing their restaurant count from almost 650 to the current 50. That being said, the last remaining Ohio location operated almost as an island, independent from what transpired at a corporate level. In 2012, they left the franchise agreement due to changes in the menu, and renamed themselves after the street on which they were located, Roney Lane. The restaurant eventually closed in 2014 due to a lease dispute, but recently reopened on Milford Parkway in Milford in an entirely new building that pays tribute to the original Roy Rogers architecture, but corrects many of the deficiencies that were present in the old location, not the least of which being the restrooms located on the rear of the building, 1970’s gas station style.
But what you really want to know about is the food, right? If I could liken the menu to anything that you might be familiar with, Hardee’s or Arby’s would be a good jumping off point. Burgers, Fried Chicken, Roast Beef sandwiches and wrap sandwiches that they call Strollers are the mainstays of the menu. They also feature a condiment bar not unlike what was featured in many fast food restaurants in the 1970’s to dress up these sandwiches to your liking. The fried chicken is crispy on the outside and incredibly juicy on the inside, the roast beef sandwiches (I like mine with Swiss cheese) are perfectly doused with something that I fondly call “yum yum sauce”, more formally known as au jus, and the Double R Burger topped with American cheese and a thin slice of ham is a great alternative to the mass production of McDonald’s or Burger King. The menu also features a fish sandwiches, the best fast food french fries I have ever had, and an Apple Cheese crisp for dessert. I’m afraid that I lack the words to adequately describe how much better this is than your standard fast food fare. Please do yourself a favor and try it for yourself the next time that you are in the Milford area. I am guessing that by now the hype has died down a little, but prepare yourself for a little bit of a wait. Roney’s regulars are a devoted breed and I count myself among them.