I have been meaning to check out Bistro Grace on Hamilton Avenue in Northside for months. In fact, I had intended to go there for my birthday in November, but I am almost glad that I didn’t because I think I might have missed out on some of the nuances that are lost when you are one in a party of 12. The space that previously housed Honey as well as the first iteration of Boca is fairly simple, but the beams that formerly supported the second floor that are now exposed are a nice touch as are the newish tin ceiling tiles. I am a sucker for real candles as well. Enough with the battery powered LED imitations. I also really enjoyed the kitschy Cincinnati themed art, especially the vintage streetcar ads. The bar seems a little big for the space, but I haven’t been there when the restaurant was full, so maybe the size is warranted. Although when I visited, it was a little too chilly to sit on the inviting patio behind the building, I think I might request to dine there next time I go back to Bistro Grace.
I started my meal with a glass of an Italian red by Masi served in an appealing tulip shaped glass. I’m not sure if I didn’t love the wine or if the glass itself was a little soapy. I am going to go with the former since a soapy glass doesn’t really fit with the level of service that I experienced at Bistro Grace. Our server, Ashley, was outstanding not only in her promptness and her professionalism, but also in her knowledge of the menu. We ordered the beer cheese appetizer which was delivered quickly. The lightly salted soft pretzel bread (one of my faves) was slightly crunchy and perfectly complimented the beer cheese which had a fondue like texture. After we finished the pretzel bread, the server was kind enough to suggest that we keep the remaining beer cheese to dip our fries in. I was in the mood for a burger and Bistro Grace did not disappoint. It was served with crispy bourbon shallots, fontina cheese, caramelized onions and a garlic mustard seed aioli. I have to say that it was one of the best gourmet burgers that I have had in quite some time and the duck fat fries that I ordered with it were great too. Most duck fat fries are too heavy for me for a lack of a better word and these possessed just enough duck flavor to set them apart from typical French fries. I also sampled the BBQ chicken and mac and cheese, served with crispy skin on potatoes, which were appealingly garlickey.
Not to take away at all from the great food at Bistro Grace, but I also think it might be a cool place to meet friends for a before or after dinner drink. In addition to the nice sized wine list, there is a great bourbon selection, if that is your poison, as well as an all local draft beer list including Rheingeist, Warped Wing, Weidemanns, Eight Ball and Blank Slate. If the real estate experts are to be believed, Northside will be following in the revitalization footsteps of Over the Rhine and Walnut Hills. When and if this prediction comes to pass, I suspect that Bistro Grace will become quite popular.